studio jeweler

Remaking a family heirloom

2012-01-21T14:38:00.000-05:00

Jewelry designers are often asked to redesign outdated jewelry by making something completely new from the stones and metal. However, in this case I was asked toreproduce a family heirloom- a rather large diamond brooch.

Mimi Favre

Several identical brooches were made for thefamily nearly a century ago. I was told the design is a stylized side view of a bloomingrose to honor a family members contribution to the founding of a prominent GardenClub and design of a famous garden. Several generations later, my clientdesired to replicate this special heirloom for his family.

Mimi Favre

We decided that rather than make a replica of the originallarge brooch, a pendant adapted from the design could retain the significanceand still honor the original design. The original brooch is approximately 2 ¼” in diameter.

Pendant models-Mimi Favre©

I began the process by printing a reduced image of the pin to approximate the pendant. However, simply reducing the size by percentage does not yield a template. This photo shows two potential widths of the finished piece. Two handmade models are placed along side reduced images of the original.

Pendant model -MimiFavre©

The adapted design needs to be strong enough and wide enough for stones to be set and retain the subtle curvilinear form of the original. Providing visual information to a client is essential in the design process.

The finished pendant is made from platinum and is approximately 1 1/4" wide. Platinum chain is attached at the sides.

Tourmaline and Pyrite Necklace

2012-01-07T00:05:00.001-05:00

The American Gem Trade Association sponsors The Spectrum Awards contest to promote the use of colored gemstones in fine jewelry.

This necklace is my entry in the 2012 AGTA Spectrum Competition.

Green tourmalines with pyrite beads. 18k gold. ©Mimi Favre 2011.

The necklace features two cushion shaped green cabochon tourmalines and faceted pyrite beads. Pyrite isn't a gemstone--it's iron. However I loved the warm metallic color and used it as a compliment to the two large tourmalines. The larger 22 carat tourmaline is a fine mint green color with flash of aqua. The smaller 10.9 carat square tourmaline is strong blue-green.

Pre-stringing- spacers, clasp, center pendant. ©Mimi Favre 2011.

I was sifting through my collection of stones not entirely certain of what type of jewelry to make. However I knew that I wanted to use the two large tourmalines. Combining the mellow gold pyrite with the cushion shape cabochon tourmalines suggested a vintage color combination--like a vintage piece from the 1920's.

Tourmalines 18k gold. ©Mimi Favre 2011.

The somewhat irregular hand faceting of the beads suggested to me that the settings also needed a hand applied textural element. I created settings for the tourmalines in 18k gold which have a deliberately unrefined sawtooth edge and prongs. Five strands of varied size pyrite beads form a flat ribbon affect. Stringing was a bit challenging because each line had to be a different length to fit the contour of the human neckline. I added 18k gold spacers also with sawed texture and set with smaller square tourmalines to guide the five individual strands.

Tourmaline and Pyrite Necklace © Mimi Favre.

Finished Necklace is 18-19"(not including pendant).

Quartz

2011-11-03T13:27:00.000-04:00

I love the subtle color and natural inclusions of this material.

New pieces for FavreBijoux on Etsy.

Rutiles in pale green quartz. Sterling Silver. ©Mimi Favre-FavreBijoux

Quartz. Citrine, Clear light green, Rose. Sterling Silver. ©Mimi Favre-FavreBijoux

Amethyst in Rutilated Quartz. Sterling Silver. ©Mimi Favre-FavreBijoux

South Sea Pearl & Sapphire Platinum Earrings

2011-09-14T19:13:00.002-04:00

Recently, I completed a pair of sapphire and South Sea pearl earrings. What began as 'show and tell' of recent additions to my inventory became a new jewelry project for my friend!

14mm x 16mm baroque South Sea Pearls.

I met this client over a decade ago in a botanical paintingclass. Our friendship began when we discovered that we had gone to the same art school (different years) andthat we had both had a wonderful design teacher there whom we had learned a lot from even though she was a stickler for detailand a tough grader. She had taught both of us design and color theory.

Usually I paint the design when I make a custom piece but inthis case my artistic friend knew exactly what she wanted. I had shown thepearls to her after a Tucson buying trip and a few months later she showed me adesign with blue stones and yellow gold. She likes dangle earrings and wanted to use sapphires. We met once more after I had procured the sapphires to go over the fine points of the design. It was decided that all white metal, in this case platinum, would compliment the silvery white baroque pearls and cornflower blue sapphires.

For this pair of earrings I made setting models with six prongs to be cast in platinum. The center wire is round platinum stock that I drilled at each end. The earring is flexible in two places to allow swinging movement . The pearls move side to side.

Mimi Favre Studio

South Sea pearls and sapphires- Platinum. ©Mimi Favre 2011

Waiting for Irene

2011-08-27T18:49:00.002-04:00

A few hundred miles away, Hurricane Irene is churning up the Atlantic heading towards us in southeastern Pennsylvania. The local news is reporting that we will have a tropical storm with 5-10 inches of rain later tonight. All we can do now is wait.

It is eerily quiet outside. There is not one bird in sight or to be heard. The sky is beginning to get overcast and it is raining lightly but the light is still bright enough to take photos. It has been a warm and sunny summer and although there are still a few tomatoes in the garden, and everything is still green, there are subtle signs of fall. This is one of those moments when a natural event intervenes in our busy lives and allows us to pause and just absorb everything the moment has to offer. I decided to take a walk in the rain around my garden and the yard beyond.

anemone. Great fall blooming plant.

Nasturtiam in the vegetable garden border.

Moonflowers. Beautiful fragrant flowers bloom at night.

Sunflowers are 7 ft.

Beautiful feathery foliage of amsonia hubrectii.

Sycamore bark.

Huge white fungus.

Small fungus in wood chip mulch.

This is a native grass that we have naturalized in a small field.

The Art of Custom Jewelry

2011-08-05T13:43:00.006-04:00

One of the great pleasures I derive from being a jeweler is the occasional new design project that involves an old piece of jewelry. In this case, grandmother’s ring is being dismantled and the diamonds are to be used for a new set of wedding rings.

I recently met with a young couple that needed wedding bands for their August wedding. The groom to be had already given his fiancée a solitaire diamond engagemant ring. The bride to be had been given her grandmother's diamond wedding ring to be used for a new wedding band. The design challenge for me was to create a new band and to use most or all of the diamonds. Also, I would be providing a wedding band for the groom.

The engagement ring is a somewhat modern style of heavy round wire that wraps the finger, twists a bit and holds the diamond with two wide bezels. A standard flat band would not lie against the side evenly. I ruled out this option because over time the wear on the rings would be very uneven. Since wedding rings are worn together continuously for years, it is important when designing them to pay close attention to where the metal touches and how they nest together.

My sketch.

The solution was to make two diamond bands to be worn with the solitaire. There were enough stones to create a great look. And, it was decided that two small stones could be used in the groom’s band too. I made two rings in wax then photgographed them with her ring.

Center engagement ring.
Two carved wax rings with diamonds positioned in place.

Side view.

Two cast 14k white gold rings, semi polished and ready for settting. Old ring mounting.

Another design consideration was to set the diamonds flush, burnished rather than pave with bright cut and beads. This style of setting compliments the existing solitaire which has a clean modern style.

Finished rings. Shows where engagement ring will fit.

Trio of rings. Design by Mimi Favre 2011.

The groom opted for traditonal pave for his band. Just like the original sketch, two stones have been set in the grooms wedding band on the diagonal with a slight arc in the bright cut.

Grooms wedding ring with two small diamonds.

Dogwood Ring

2011-06-29T10:52:00.002-04:00

I opened an Internet shop called FavreBijoux on Etsy almost two years ago. Etsy provides a template for photos and descriptions and facilitates transactions through PayPal. FavreBijoux is where I sell some of my production designs in both sterling silver and 18k gold along with a selection of one of a kind jewelry. The Internet has made it possible for artists like myself to connect with buyers anywhere in the world. Since opening I have shipped pieces to Europe, Canada and many states in the US. Today, every brand is developing a social presence and in many cases directly selling on their sites. Luxury products are selling online along with Fine Art.

Through the years I have made many wedding bands and other custom pieces to mark special occasions. I have been privy to the engagement plans and intimate stories that inspire the jewelry and I am always honored that my clients share these personal messages with me.

The original Dogwood ring was commissioned by a couple. She is a published author of books on horticulture and he is a master gardener and teacher of horticulture. Her love of the Dogwood flower, a native species in Pennsylvania, inspired the ring. My interest in botanical painting infused the project with the necessary detail required to sculpt the original wax. I guess it should follow that this Dogwood ring is a sentimental favorite on Etsy and on several occasions it has become an engagement ring.

Dogwood Ring- 18k Gold. ©FavreBijoux on Etsy.

Dogwood Ring-18k gold. Original sketch ©Mimi Favre-FavreBijoux

Dogwood Ring- Sterling Silver. ©FavreBijoux-Mimi Favre

Decorative Metalwork- Early 20th Century

2011-06-10T12:59:00.004-04:00

Decorative metalwork from the Early 20^th Century Arts and Craft period has always been an inspiration to me. I was intrigued as a child by a flat copper dish that was in our home. It had a hammered design on the border and was obviously handmade . The story is that my grandfather had made it in school shop class circa 1911. I know now that it was a design and object typical of the era. I loved the color of the old copper and I coveted this object by carrying it with me to my college dorm room and various apartments over the years.

I also remember visiting numerous antique shops in upstate NY, where I attended college in the 70's, that were crammed with stuff from this period—of course I had no money! This was before Arts and Craft style and brands, like Sickley and Roycroft, had renewed popularity and prices escalated.

Maybe what captures my interest is the handmade aura that the objects of this period posses. Roycroft employed 500 crafters in East Aurora, New York at its peak. Along with other handcrafts like bookbinding, the community made decorative metal objects from copper that fit the style of oak furniture of the day. The Stickley brothers produced hand made furniture in the Mission Style from quarter sawn oak and visible joinery, which incorporated hammered textured hardware from bronze.

The common elements of metalwork of this style that I find appealing are the simple somewhat organic designs and the use of texture. Rivets are used to join elements together. The touch of the artist’s hand evidenced by hammer marks and use of other chasing tools make this work unique. The objects were meant to decorate and be useful. Large bowls and vessels, candle sticks, lamps, book ends and desk sets were common products.

The objects pictured are from various makers to be sold by Rago Auctions in Lambertville, New Jersey. This established business specializes in this period. I took the pictures onsite with permission from staff.

Karl Kipp- Rago lot 380A

Roycroft- Rago Lot 394

Roycroft- Rago Lot 383

Roycroft Desk Set (Detail)

Roycroft- Rago Lot 383

Stickley - Rago Lot 408

Add caption

Gustav Stickley- Rare Candlesticks- Rago Lot 374

Tiffany Studios- Rago Lot 540

Tiffany Studios- Rago Lot 521

Tiffany glass lamps and decorative objects of this period have always been popular and I believe will always be collected.

Steeplechase

2011-05-21T22:43:00.003-04:00

A week of rainy weather gave way to a picture perfect day. The Steeplechase event now in it's eighty first year in this lovely corner of Chester County, PA, has more recently become a fundraiser to benefit The Brandywine Conservancy. There are several horse races during the day over a hilly open course of mowed fields and jumps.

Jockeys form a line just before the starter signals the start of the race.

Race has started.

The race is on.

To hear the rumble of galloping horses approach then see a flash of color as the jockeys ride by wearing the color of the stables they ride for is like being in a Degas painting- a spectacle that has not changed in a hundred years.

This could be a painting by Edgar Degas.

The race course lined with picnic tents.

Enjoying the race at The Bellevue Tent.

Cheese and fruit table.

The Bellevue served a Moroccan dinner to their guests. Flower arrangements by Beautiful Blooms were incredible.

South Sea Pearls

2011-05-16T00:57:00.001-04:00

Two new pieces.

Pyramid Earrings. 12mm South Sea Pearls 18k gold.

Baroque South Sea Pearl Enhancer. 17 mm x 20 mm Pearl, Aquamarine and Mali Garnet. 18k and Platinum.

Roberto Capucci Exhibit- Philadelphia Museum of Art

2011-04-25T11:07:00.002-04:00

I started sewing at an early age. There was an old chest in our attic filed with a variety of fabric remnants and old tin boxes filled with vintage buttons, ribbon, trims and lace. Some items were salvaged from old clothes to be used again or they were the remainders of sewing projects from an earlier time. This was a treasure trove to me- a seemingly endless supply of sewing projects.

By my teens I was into a sewing frenzy and had worked my way through the family fabric stash. Around this time my Great Aunt who was an excellent sewer, took notice and began giving me incredible vintage fabrics, old patterns, trims (and amazing vintage clothing) that she had bought and never used. My interest in fabrics, clothing design and construction has not waned.

Pictured are two vintage items from my Great Aunt that are now in the Philadelphia Art Museum Costume Collection.

From my Great Aunt's collection. Shoes from Strawbridge and Clothier. Ca 1920's

Horesehair braid hat ca. 1925.

Currently on view at The Philadelphia Museum of Art is Roberto Capucci: Art Into Fashion curated by Dilys E. Blum. It is the first survey of his work in the United States. I admit that I had never heard of this designer before. The exhibit was very enjoyable and inspiring. His passion for his work is evident and affirms for me the importance of not compromising your creative vision.

The show is complete with pieces spanning five decades beginning with the post World War II era. It begins with very wearable Haute Couture pieces from the 50’s and 60’s. Slowly one can see his progression to clothing that is more sculptural with an emphasis on volume, form and color. Large sketches accompany some of the designs. All of the clothing is on mannequins and placed to allow for close inspection, which is critical since the fabrics, colors and construction details are what make this exhibition so special. The photos reproduced here are from the exhibiton publication Roberto Capucci:Art Into Fashion by Dilys E. Blum of The Philadelphia Art Museum.

Roberto Capucci:Art Into Fashion. Philadelphia Art Museum

Beading with genuine turquoise.
Roberto Capucci:Art Into Fashion. Philadelphia Art Museum

Roberto Capucci:Art Into Fashion. Philadelphia Art Museum

Magnolia bloom- shades of pink and cerise.

2011-04-20T19:51:00.001-04:00

I am an amateur botanical painter. Every year the beautiful Magnolia in my garden is on my list to paint. Unfortunately the bloom is rather fleeting. If we get a cold snap the white flowers turn brown and the buds fall off. If it is too hot the tree blooms out in a day or two. And the petals cannot withstand a heavy spring rain. Even under the most optimum weather conditions one has to work fast. I am so busy making jewelry that I do not have time to paint, again! This year's weather was as near perfect as it can be. The tree is in full bloom. I decided to take alot of pictures and maybe I will sketch out a few flowers and make some color notes. I might just get something started to finish next year.

The fragrance of a Magnolia tree in full bloom is magical.

Van Cleef and Arpels- Set In Style at the Cooper Hewitt

2011-03-19T18:10:00.004-04:00

"Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, the most comprehensive exhibition ever organized of Van Cleef & Arpels’ masterworks, is divided into six themes which resonate through the history of the firm: Innovation, both stylistic and technical; Transformations; Nature as Inspiration; Exoticism; Fashion; and Personalities. This unprecedented assembly of 350 pieces from VC&A’s collection and international private collections, augmented by never-before-seen drawings from VC&A’s design archives and by related objects from Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum’s permanent collection, illustrates the firm’s celebrated history and places its contributions to design in a broader context." - from the Exhibition Site.

Sycamore Leaf Brooch. Paris, France, 1951. Collection of Van Cleef and Arpels.

The exhibit design is very well done. There are six sections or rooms of jewelry. The display and lighting is exceptional. Aside from the wide variety of objects the curators included several cases with job journals. Pages are open to sketches and imformation (like stone weights) of some of the pieces included in the exhibit. I especially love looking at these. They usually only show one front view. Having worked in a specialty work shop from designs, I believe that the usnsung heros are the skilled jewelers who extrapolate information and execute the designs. One book has been photographed and installed as an app which allows you to virtually turn pages (works like ipad). Through June 5, 2011.

Mystery-set Brooch. Ruby, Diamond, platinum and gold. Paris, France, 1936.

Typically when one thinks of Van Cleef and Arpels, Mystery setting comes to mind. Each stone has a groove cut in the sides and is then slid onto 'tracks'. The lapidary has to consider minute variations in geometry with each stone in order to make them sit perfectly side by side.

Volutes Minaudiere. Patented design. Black laquer and gold. Paris, France 1935

This Minaudiere is incredible. Notice the watch on the right that slides out to be viewed.

Egyptian Odalisque Evening Bag. Paris, France, 1927.

This bag shows the influence of the discovery of the pyramids in Egypt and the design motifs that influenced decorative arts of that decade.

Radiator Clip/Pin.

Art Deco Radiator watch clip and pin combination. The design is adapted from the new fast cars of this period. The shutters move.

Design for Camoratta Brooch. Van Cleef made a series of ballerina pins. This piece is after a painting.

Late 1950's. Thai influenced design. Notice how basic the rendering is.

Earrings. Paris, France, 1951.

Japanese laquer butterfly form.

Bouquet Brooch. Paris, France, 1938. Private collection.

Beautiful and timeless Floral Brooch. I love the moonstone and ruby combination.

All images are from the exhibition site.

Creative play

2011-03-05T14:30:00.011-05:00

Entry with some of the material: acorns, Franklinia seed pod, sweet gum tree pod, pine cone, eucalyptus leaf, wisteria seed, styrax seed. (not pictured:mustard seeds, peppercorn)

I am a collector of seedpods, leaves and pretty much all range of flora. Often I find inspiration for my jewelry in the infinite shapes, forms and texture. This year I was able to use some of my stash to create a piece of jewelry to enter in the Jewelry Class at The Philadelphia Flower Show. The theme, Un Colleir pour la Reine (a necklace for a queen), is not intended to be worn however it is supposed to embody all the attributes of a real piece. There isn’t a monetary award or notoriety attached to this, however if you win a blue ribbon you and your guest get to attend the big Luncheon for all the winners. If you live in Philly and/or you are into gardening, this show is a big deal. I do this for my own pleasure and to take a creative break even though this necklace took about twice as long as a real piece to make.

Art supplies, nail polish and dried pods take over the kitchen table.

I have been designing and making jewelry for others and myself since attaining my BFA in Metals from Rochester Institute of Technology, back when it was The School for American Craftsmen. Finding inspiration for new work can be challenging at times and I have found that working in another medium infuses the creative spirit. The design process is the same as if this were a commission however the only thing at stake this time is satisfying myself. And once completed, my necklace will be seen by thousands of visitors who slowly file past the lighted cases where mine and the other entries of this unique art form are displayed.

The pieces I didn't make.

Looking back over my sketches and holding the finished piece, I see changes that I could have made to make this a stronger design. If I were to make another I know what I would do differently the next time. This is the creative process at work. There is always something new to learn and put to use the next time.

A few things learned:

Admit that something isn’t working and don’t be afraid to start over.

Don’t get hung up using one element.

Step back and see the whole piece.

Rather than add, simplify- take something away.

Talisman pendants

2011-02-21T10:56:00.001-05:00

Talisman Pendants from FavreBijoux. This is an ongoing series of one of a kind pieces made exclusively for my Etsy shop. I recently purchased a nice selection of interesting stones from the Tucson Gem Show. Some of them are pictured below.

Blue Tourmaline Rutiles in Quartz. Sterling silver and 18k handmade setting. (Sold)

Quartz with light green tourmaline rutiles, pale amethyst, green amethyst, rutiled quartz.

Coming soon as pendants.

Fall 2010. (Sold)

Tourmaline in Quartz. Sterling silver and 18k gold.

Tourmaline in quartz, copper rutiles in smokey quartz, rutilated quartz.

Marquis shape quartz with prominent rutiles. New pieces will be posted here first.

Gem Show- Tucson

2011-02-07T00:24:00.001-05:00

Photos of some of my favorite gems and minerals found in Tucson during the gem shows of February.

Mixed lot of natural color South Sea pearls. GJX.

Turquoise and Lapis

Huge Amethyst Geodes

Polished rose quartz balls.

Huge boulder of fish fossils.

Quartz- watercolors

2011-01-25T16:27:00.003-05:00

According to Wikipedia, Quartz is the second most common mineral in the Earth’s continental crust. Citrine, rose quartz and amethyst are some of the more common quartz gemstones. Often it is heat treated to attain bold rich colors, which are commercially more appealing.

Dendrite quartz, white quartz, rose quartz with tourmalines.

The subtle watercolor shades of natural unheated quartz are very beautiful. I set them in black silver settings.

Beautiful light amethyst long drops await a new design.

winter landscape

2011-01-17T11:31:00.005-05:00

My recent posts seem to be more about horticulture than jewelry. I have been busy planning new work but I am also thinking about my Philadelphia Flower Show entry in the dried plant jewelry category. The show theme is "Springtime in Paris" and my task is to make a "necklace for the queen".

marshmallow

passiflora tendrils

red twig dogwood

echinacea

Made with sea oats, iris leaves, acorns, orange peel, lombardy poplar branch, dried peas.

A set of bracelets. My entry 2010.

Winter bloom

2011-01-04T14:18:00.001-05:00

Another year begins and with it the opportunity to think about new projects. I have used many of the stones I bought last year and although a few remain unset, I am excited to buy more at the gem shows in February.

I love to be outside this time of year because the days are getting longer and my garden begins a new cycle of bloom.

Chimonanthus praecox, Japanese allspice

This is a most fragrant flowering shrub from Japan. The blooms are short lived in a vase however it has been blooming outside since mid December.

Jasminum nudiflorum, Winter Jasmine

This is an outstanding hardy plant from China that will cascade if it is on a hillside. It's a spreading low grower. I had to cut whatever I could for a vase before the deer ravage the flowering stems. It isn't fragrant but the color is very beautiful in the winter landscape.

Dorrie Nossiter, Jewelry Designer 1893- 1977

2010-12-27T18:28:00.003-05:00

Looking through some auction catalogs on the internet I came across a colorful brooch that I just love! It is made by a jewelry designer who I am unfamiliar with, Dorrie Nossiter. She was British and although her jewelry is considered arts and crafts, I think it is more modern and may have influenced 50's and 60's costume jewelry designers.

Silver Gold Sapphire Moonstone Peridot Garnet Chrysoberyl Ruby. Diameter: 5.00 cm (1.97 in) British, c.1930, Fitted Case

Sapphire, moonstone, green zircon, peridot, garnet, chrysoberyl & ruby. Literature: cf. Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition, Elyse Zorn Karlin, 1993, page 85. Silver Jewelry Designs, Nancy N. Schiffer, 1996, page 101. Ref: 6538

DORRIE NOSSITER 1893-1977, Arts & Crafts Clip Brooch ,Silver Gold Amethyst Moonstone Garnet Ruby. H: 4.6 cm (1.81 in) W: 2.4 cm (0.94 in), British, c.1930. Fitted Case. Literature: cf. Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition, Elyse Zorn Karlin, 1993, page 85. Silver Jewelry Designs, Nancy N. Schiffer, 1996, page 101

DORRIE NOSSITER 1893-1977

Arts & Crafts Brooch Silver Gold Citrine Tourmaline Pearl. H: 4.3 cm (1.69 in) W: 3.9 cm (1.54 in)

British, c.1930, Fitted Case, Literature: cf. Twentieth-century Jewellery, From Art Nouveau to Contemporary Design in Europe and the United States, Alba Cappellieri, 2010, Illustrated p.137.

ISBN: 978-88-6130-532-8. Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition, Elyse Zorn Karlin, 1993, page 85

Silver Jewelry Designs, Nancy N. Schiffer, 1996, page 101Ref: 6190

DORRIE NOSSITER 1893-1977, Arts & Crafts Clip Brooches , Silver Gold Citrine Amethyst Pearl

Diameter: 3.30 cm (1.3 in), British, 1930, Fitted Case

Literature: cf. Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition, Elyse Zorn Karlin, 1993, page 85

Silver Jewelry Designs, Nancy N. Schiffer, 1996, page 101. Ref: 3027

DORRIE NOSSITER 1893-1977, Arts & Crafts Clip Brooch , Silver Gold Amethyst Citrine
H: 4.6 cm (1.81 in) W: 3.4 cm (1.34 in), British, c.1930. Fitted Case
Literature: cf. Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition, Elyse Zorn Karlin, 1993, page 85
Silver Jewelry Designs, Nancy N. Schiffer, 1996, page 101. Ref: 4816

All images of Dorrie Nossiter Jewellery, from Tadema Gallery Website.

Earring clips by Mimi Favre, 2007. 18k gold, peridot, tourmalines, aquamarine, topaz, pink sapphire.

Silver pearls and blue stones

2010-12-01T10:05:00.007-05:00

Tanzanite, cultured pearls, kyanite, 18k gold

Classic pearl necklace is handstrung with accent of blue kyanite beads and 18k spacers. Tanzanite cabochon enhancer set in 18k gold.

Baroque South Sea pearl with Sapphires from Africa.

Natural color baroque pearl is 17mm. African sapphires set in platinum.

Available for purchase at TayloePiggottGallery in Jackson, Wyoming.

Fossil Coral

2010-11-07T12:04:00.004-05:00

With gold prices at an all time high I have gone back to my metalsmithing roots. I decided to make a few pieces out of sterling silver combined with18k gold.

Pendant on a long chain is an agitized fossil coral cabochon set in silver. Accent stones are garnets from Mali set in 18k gold. Interest in Natural history is evident in Victorian era jewelry. I designed this piece to be reminiscent of that period.

Long pendant of fossil coral is set in a fabricated sterling silver setting. Two Mali garnets, cognac and deep rusty brown accentuate the range of colors.

Transitions

2010-10-23T16:24:00.002-04:00

This is the time of year when my garden rapidly changes; everyday brings a new pallet of color. I have added plants over the years that provide all season interest.

Hydrangea quercifolia or native oak leaf hydrangea pictured in early summer.

It's late October and the leaves are a range of burgundy shades and the flower petals are like dried paper.

Sterling and 18k Hydrangea Earrings

This old squirrel ornament sits in the garden. I have seen real squirrels take a closer look and then run off up a tree.

Squirrel Pendant is carved and cast in sterling silver with 18k eyes

This is zelkova serrata growing in a container on my deck. Soon it will have lost all of it's leaves. But first I'll slip a few between some pages in my sketchbook.

Luxury

2010-10-05T13:49:00.003-04:00

Here is Joachim Murat, brother in law of Napolean aka 'the dandy king'. As I stood before this huge painting at The Louvre in Paris, I was struck by the fashionable look of this fellow. Sporting a real tiger hide as blanket, jeweled saber, fancy bridle and pointy boots. Wow, so fashionable and so French!

That portrait made me think of Hermes which began as a bridle and saddle maker. Today it is one of the world's great luxury brands.

Shop window at night all dressed for fall. That is an alligator coat!

The fox isn't real but the dirt on the floor is. This picture does not capture the richness of the scene. These windows were unbelievably full of luxury goods. A visual feast.

Photo's are from my recent trip to France.

Amethyst and Spinel Brooch

2010-10-01T09:32:00.008-04:00

My AGTA Spectrum 2011 Entry. Elongated pear shape cabachon is natural untreated Amethyst from Bolivia. Faceted spinel outline the center stone. I made an 18karat enhancer to wear as a pendant. Completely hand fabricated in 18 karat gold and platinum.

Reverse view shows the platinum settings and the heavy solid 18karat wire that encircles the settings. The amethyst weighs 25 carats.

I purchased the amethyst at the 2010 GJX in Tuscon from an independent cutter. The spinel have such a beautiful range of blue and lavender color. Together the combination makes a dramatic color statement.

red and green: Autumn color palette

2010-09-06T17:39:00.017-04:00

One of my favorite color combinations, red and green, is found in Autumn when the color palette of the landscape is transformed. Summer flowers become beautiful colorful seed pods. The contrast is so striking and beautiful.

Paeonia obovata


Euonymous americanus

Quatrefoil pendant set with tourmaline and Mali garnet is 18k gold and oxidized silver. Handmade 18k gold chain.
Inquire or purchase this piece.

Fashion: Vintage Couture Necklaces

2010-08-16T14:36:00.021-04:00

Collarettes by Lanvin, embroidery and cut crystals, France ca. 1930, 1928.
Images: Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture by Florence Muller.

I noticed these vintage costume necklaces while perusing the pages of Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture by Florence Muller, Edited by Patrick Sigal. This book surveys jewelry pieces made mostly in France specifically for couture collections. Sadly, most of the costume jewelry industry in France is no longer in business. Each generation 'discovers' new looks. These striking examples remind me of necklaces currently found in stores like Anthropologie or J. Crew. Fashion is indeed fickle.

Necklace by Maison Gripoix, for Chanel. Glass, enamel, metal. France, ca. 1930.
Image: Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture

Classic Chanel combination of chain, charms and color.

Christian Dior, stamped metal cones and rosettes. France c. 1950

Made for Schiaparelli. Silk, feathers, metal, chain. France ca. 1953

All images are from Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture by Florence Muller.

Jewelry Collection

2010-08-08T14:39:00.003-04:00

I spent a few days at the Tayloe Piggott Gallery in Jackson, Wyoming this past week. The gallery represents contemporary American fine artists and selected jewelry designers.

This case holds a collection of my jewelry designs.

Aquamarine

2010-08-03T18:21:00.003-04:00

Natural unheated aquamarine with sapphires in 18k gold. One of a kind.

South Sea Pearls

2010-07-28T07:36:00.003-04:00

More necklaces! Both feature South Sea Pearl enhancers. I added a small Australian boulder opa l cab with predominantly blue and green flashes of color to the silver baroque pearl. The pendant is shown on a faceted kyanite bead necklace. The pale yellow drop pearl is paired with a greenish yellow African sapphire and hangs from faceted peridot beads.

Both necklaces are handstrung with my own 18k toggle clasps.

green

2010-07-17T18:20:00.003-04:00

I would be the first to admit that green is one of my favorite colors and green stones are no exception. The green bands within this emerald cut quartz is created by the presence of Epidote, a mineral. The lighter green beads are very lively chrysoberyl, some with cat's eyes, and the bright green are peridot which also happens to be the birthstone for August.

The setting and spacers are oxidzed sterling silver. Both strands of beads have been handstrung and knotted to lay close together. This necklace is part of a small collection I am making for Tayloe Piggott Gallery in Jackson, Wyoming.

blue and gray

2010-07-09T09:21:00.011-04:00

Three pairs of earrings are part of a small collection that I am currently making. Silvery gray-blue tahitian pearls with blue spinel and quartz drops. Tahitian pearls are natural color and this is my favorite shade. The long drop quartz are from Brazil. I love the elongated shape and cut. The violet blue shade of the spinel is unusual and very pretty. All jewelry is 18k.

I have a new jewelry stamp of my name FAVRE, seen here on the reverse of the quartz drop earrings.

4th of July

2010-07-04T22:42:00.003-04:00

Happy Birthday USA.

Color - found in the NYC subway

2010-06-20T09:33:00.021-04:00

This subway mosaic is circa 1917. Mosaics like this are found in all of the older subway stations in a huge variety of color combinations. They were designed and created as efficient attractive and easy to maintain sinage. This one caught my eye; I love this color combination.

Later, I bought these! Tourmalines for earrings.

Inspiration

2010-06-02T11:05:00.008-04:00

Notable New Yorker cartoonist Gahan Wilson gave a memorable talk that I attended when I was in art school. He showed large lecture hall sized slides of his now famous cartoons and clever captions. While I can only recall a few of the images, I never forgot his reply to a question about inspiration. He said "I paint what I see."