Van Cleef and Arpels- Set In Style at the Cooper Hewitt

"Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, the most comprehensive exhibition ever organized of Van Cleef & Arpels’ masterworks, is divided into six themes which resonate through the history of the firm: Innovation, both stylistic and technical; Transformations; Nature as Inspiration; Exoticism; Fashion; and Personalities. This unprecedented assembly of 350 pieces from VC&A’s collection and international private collections, augmented by never-before-seen drawings from VC&A’s design archives and by related objects from Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum’s permanent collection, illustrates the firm’s celebrated history and places its contributions to design in a broader context." - from the Exhibition Site. 

Sycamore Leaf Brooch.  Paris, France, 1951. Collection of Van Cleef and Arpels.

The exhibit design is very well done. There are six sections or rooms of jewelry. The display and lighting is exceptional. Aside from the wide variety of objects the curators included several cases with job journals. Pages are open to sketches and imformation (like stone weights) of some of the pieces included in the exhibit.  I especially love looking at these.  They usually only show one front view. Having worked in a specialty work shop from designs, I believe that the usnsung heros are the skilled jewelers who extrapolate information and execute the designs. One book has been photographed and installed as an app which allows you to virtually turn pages (works like ipad). Through June 5, 2011.

Mystery-set Brooch. Ruby, Diamond, platinum and gold. Paris, France, 1936.

Typically when one thinks of Van Cleef and Arpels, Mystery setting comes to mind. Each stone has a groove cut in the sides and is then slid onto 'tracks'. The lapidary has to consider minute variations in geometry with each stone in order to make them sit perfectly side by side.

 

Volutes Minaudiere. Patented design. Black laquer and gold. Paris, France 1935

This Minaudiere is incredible. Notice the watch on the right that slides out to be viewed.

Egyptian Odalisque Evening Bag. Paris, France, 1927.

This bag shows the influence of the discovery of the pyramids in Egypt and the design motifs that influenced decorative arts of that decade.  

Radiator Clip/Pin.

Art Deco Radiator watch clip and pin combination. The design is adapted from the new fast cars of this period. The shutters move.

 Design for Camoratta Brooch. Van Cleef made a series of ballerina pins. This piece is after a painting. 

Late 1950's. Thai influenced design. Notice how basic the rendering is.

Earrings. Paris, France, 1951.

Japanese laquer butterfly form.

Bouquet Brooch. Paris, France, 1938. Private collection.

Beautiful and timeless Floral Brooch. I love the moonstone and ruby combination.

All images are from the exhibition site. 

Creative play

Entry with some of the material: acorns, Franklinia seed pod, sweet gum  tree pod, pine cone, eucalyptus leaf, wisteria seed, styrax seed. (not pictured:mustard seeds, peppercorn)

I am a collector of seedpods, leaves and pretty much all range of flora.  Often I find inspiration for my jewelry in the infinite shapes, forms and texture.  This year I was able to use some of my stash to create a piece of jewelry to enter in the Jewelry Class at The Philadelphia Flower Show.  The theme, Un Colleir pour la Reine (a necklace for a queen), is not intended to be worn however it is supposed to embody all the attributes of a real piece.  There isn’t a monetary award or notoriety attached to this, however if you win a blue ribbon you and your guest get to attend the big Luncheon for all the winners. If you live in Philly and/or you are into gardening, this show is a big deal. I do this for my own pleasure and to take a creative break even though this necklace took about twice as long as a real piece to make.

Art supplies, nail polish and dried pods take over the kitchen table. 

I have been designing and making jewelry for others and myself since attaining my BFA in Metals from Rochester Institute of Technology, back when it was The School for American Craftsmen. Finding inspiration for new work can be challenging at times and I have found that working in another medium infuses the creative spirit.  The design process is the same as if this were a commission however the only thing at stake this time is satisfying myself. And once completed, my necklace will be seen by thousands of visitors who slowly file past the lighted cases where mine and the other entries of this unique art form are displayed.

The pieces I didn't make.

Looking back over my sketches and holding the finished piece, I see changes that I could have made to make this a stronger design. If I were to make another I know what I would do differently the next time. This is the creative process at work. There is always something new to learn and put to use the next time.

A few things learned:

Admit that something isn’t working and don’t be afraid to start over.

Don’t get hung up using one element.

Step back and see the whole piece.

Rather than add, simplify- take something away.

Talisman pendants

Talisman Pendants from FavreBijoux.  This is an ongoing series of one of a kind pieces made exclusively for my Etsy shop. I recently purchased a nice selection of interesting stones from the Tucson Gem Show. Some of them are pictured below. 

Blue Tourmaline Rutiles in Quartz. Sterling silver and 18k handmade setting. (Sold)

Quartz with light green tourmaline rutiles, pale amethyst, green amethyst, rutiled quartz.

Coming soon as pendants.

Fall 2010. (Sold)

Tourmaline in Quartz. Sterling silver and 18k gold.

Tourmaline in quartz, copper rutiles in smokey quartz, rutilated quartz.

Marquis shape quartz with prominent rutiles. New pieces will be posted here first.

Gem Show- Tucson

Photos of some of my favorite gems and minerals found in Tucson during the gem shows of February.

Mixed lot of  natural color South Sea pearls. GJX.

Turquoise and Lapis

Huge Amethyst Geodes

Polished rose quartz balls.

Huge boulder of fish fossils.

Quartz- watercolors

According to Wikipedia, Quartz is the second most common mineral in the Earth’s continental crust.  Citrine, rose quartz and amethyst are some of the more common quartz gemstones. Often it is heat treated to attain bold rich colors, which are commercially more appealing.

Dendrite quartz, white quartz, rose quartz with tourmalines. 

The subtle watercolor shades of natural unheated quartz are very beautiful. I set them in black silver settings.

 Beautiful light amethyst long drops await a new design.

winter landscape

My recent posts seem to be more about horticulture than jewelry. I have been busy planning new work but I am also thinking about my Philadelphia Flower Show entry in the dried plant jewelry category. The show theme is "Springtime in Paris" and my task is to make a "necklace for the queen".

marshmallow

passiflora tendrils

red twig dogwood

echinacea

Made with sea oats, iris leaves, acorns, orange peel, lombardy poplar branch, dried peas.

A set of bracelets. My entry 2010. 

Winter bloom

Another year begins and with it the opportunity to think about new projects. I have used many of the stones I bought last year and although a few remain unset, I am excited to buy more at the gem shows in February. 

I love to be outside this time of year because the days are getting longer and my garden begins a new cycle of bloom. 

Chimonanthus praecox,  Japanese allspice

This is a most fragrant flowering shrub from Japan. The blooms are short lived in a vase however it has been blooming outside since mid December.

Jasminum nudiflorum,  Winter Jasmine

This is an outstanding hardy plant from China that will cascade if it is on a hillside. It's a spreading low grower. I had to cut whatever I could for a vase before the deer ravage the flowering stems. It isn't fragrant but the color is very beautiful in the winter landscape.